Meghalaya: This land of clouds is much more than clouds 'n' rains!

We were at the fag end of our tour de North East. During the last one and a half day, we visited some parts of Meghalaya. Perhaps it is an understatement to say North East is amazing. 

Finally! This is going to be the last blog post of my North East trip. Been wanting to finish it off soon so that I could write about my other travel experiences, before the memories fade away.

It was the 10th day and we were at the fag end of our journey. Precisely we had just one and a half day left to soak in the warmth of beautiful and picturesque North Eastern part of our country. Early morning before the sun could even rise above the horizon, we checked out of the hotel and got a cab to Shillong. As the cab sped on the wide highway, I kept wondering should I be sad for being at the verge of wrapping up the trip or I should be happy for going back home with so many memories to share with friends and family?

If you are visiting Mawlynnong, you get to see these home made broomsticks in plenty.

While travelling to Shillong, the change in topography was evident. It was lush green around and the weather was awesome. The land of clouds did give us the glimpse of the monsoon effect that the region is famous for. This State was much greener than the rest.

On reaching Shillong, after 3 and a half hours drive, the taxi for our day’s sightseeing was ready to pick us up at Shillong city. We had taken the help of a North East friend to arrange for a taxi there. Soon, we began our tightly scheduled day’s trip. We weren’t really sure about the places of visit. There were too many places to see and we had very little time.

So, sitting in the car, we hurriedly planned the day’s itinerary. It was something like this: Start with Mawlynnong (living root bridge and the Asia’s cleanest village), then go to Dawki (Indo-Bangla border) and head to Cherrapunji where we had booked the room for our overnight stay.

The living root bridge at Mawlynnong.

First we visited the living root bridge at Mawlynnong in the East Khasi Hills district. It was a single decker root bridge unlike the famous double-decker root bridge in Cherrapunji. Nevertheless, for a first timer it was a marvel. These bridges are naturally formed with the entangled thick roots of rubber trees. They are made to grow in a certain way by the engineers of these bridges who are the forefathers of Khasi Tribe, one of the three dominant tribes in Meghalaya.

We crossed the bridge and walked on to the other side of the village, clueless of where it was leading us to. Walking on the narrow lanes of the village, we saw men and women engrossed in their daily chores. Most of them were busy making broomsticks using broom grass, typical of Khasi tribe.

Ready-to-sell broomsticks were displayed in front of every house in a certain fashion. Then we came across a bunch of little boys and girls in playful mood, staring at the strangers that we were and wishing us hi-bye. The life in this village was quite simple.

They were living a life with basic amenities, sans luxury; but the happiness on their faces was priceless.

Cleanest village, nothing impressive!

From the living root bridge we proceeded to Mawlynnong village located at a distance of few kms. The village is famous for its clean surroundings. It rose to fame after it was awarded the tag of “Cleanest Village in Asia” by Discover India Magazine in 2003.

Yet my first impression of this village was not really positive. Of course, the village was clean, well-maintained, no second thought about it. It was supposed to be a kind of model village with all required facilities. Neatly laid concrete roads, waste bins made of bamboo sticks, solar lights... have adorned this small village. But then it all appeared artificial, as if things were made to look nice to retain the tag of “cleanest village.” Mawlynnong lacked the rawness of the Indian village that I was looking for. I didn’t come across any activity done there typical of a village set up.

Rather, the village was under the high influence of tourism. Homestay boards were hanging before every other house to attract probable customers. Moreover, Mawlynnong was not the only clean village that I came across in Meghalaya. More or less all villages that we wandered in East Khasi district appeared tidy, with bins placed everywhere.

So, the cleanest village in Asia was quite disappointing.

At the cleanest village.

Dawki - the Indo-Bangla border

The next part of the day’s programme was to visit Dawki town in the West Jainita Hills district. The journey to Dawki was one of marvel. Thick forest, rivers, plain villages and small towns featured along the narrow roads leading to the dead end of the country. Just when we were about to reach Dawki we came across the pristine river Umngot. The river which originates in India flows to the bordering Bangladesh. Pointing at the plains on the other side of the river where heavy sand mining was taking place, the taxi driver said that the plains before us belonged to Bangladesh.

Indo-Bangla road crossing at Dawki.

Dawki has one of the few road crossings between India and Bangladesh. It’s a border without a fence. A road crossing with a checkpost separates two countries. On both sides were boards with “Welcome to India” and “Welcome to Bangladesh.” The driver would tell us funny episodes of how people freely trespass the invisible borders along the plains, in the absence of fencing. In many cases, the husband belongs to India and wife from Bangladesh or vice versa.

I came across two funny incidents at the border checkpost where we spent half an hour time. Here is the first conversation between a BSF personnel and a tourist.

Tourist: Wow! This place has no fencing?!

BSF man: No. But Indian government has started the fencing work recently.

Tourist: So anybody can move freely along the border no? Who will get to know!

BSF man: No. There are BSF personnel manning the border.

Tourist: But I cant see any of them.

BSF man: (He shows two corners and says) They are there.

Tourist: But I can’t see them.

BSF man: Oh! You want to see them? Then try to cross the border, you will realize!

Well, I must say the tourist was logical enough. In fact, the questions he asked had flashed in my mind too!

Pristine water of Umngot river.

The second instance was hilarious. It was an example of what happens when we try to be oversmart. It was a conversation that took place between a female journalist (NOT ME!) and another BSF personnel. And I must admit, that particular conversation put me to kind of shame. A typical instance of how journalists sometimes try to play their journalist card to take advantage. And of course the lady was at that place as a traveller, not as a reporter.

Journo: Sir, I want to cross the border.

BSF man: Do you have permission letter?

Journo: No. But I am journalist and I want to cross the border and see the other side.

BSF man: But you are not allowed without permission.

Journo: I am a journalist.

BSF man: Being a journalist you shouldn't have been asking this, afterall!

No response from journo’s side. Facepalm!

After gazing at the borders that divide people, we started our travel to Cherrapunji. The journey to Cherrapunji was amazing. The serpentine roads were laid amidst the Khasi hills and valleys. On arriving at Cherrapunji, I noticed the place which was once the highest rainfall receiving area in the world, was parched. There was no trace of rains, waterfalls were all dry. In fact, a board at Cherrapunji which used to describe the highest rainfall details of the place was erased.

Sand mining on the banks of Umngot river on Bangla side.

The driver then took us to Mawsmai cave. The cave is well-maintained and there are guides to help the visitors. I thoroughly enjoyed strolling around the naturally formed caves made of limestone. A value addition was the small cafe on the trail leading to the cave. Don’t miss this place. In the compact food menu they have, rice cake is a must try.

So the trip ended on a happier note with a blissful overnight stay in one of the beautifully built resorts on the outskirts of Cherrapunji. The cool breeze, sky facing Khasi hills around, quietness, some good music and food, and a hearth inside the room made the stay cheerful. Hearth, it brought back the memories of old English novels based on country stories from England, which I used to read during my growing years.

Dried up Seven Sisters waterfalls at Cherrapunji.

The one last day

Next morning was the last day of the trip. Before heading to the Guwahati Airport to catch the flight back to Namma Bengaluru, we stopped at Shillong town. A brief visit to the Umiam lake, food joints and shopping areas was all that we could during our pit stop at this charming city.

Thanks to the kind taxi driver Krishna Thapa, for making sure that we roam around the market in the little time we had. He accompanied us to the shops, bargained for us, carried our shopping bags, brought us fruits so that we don’t starve on the way. At least ten times he repeated that he wanted to show us so many things in Shillong but couldn't because of our time constraint. “This city is much more than what you have seen,” he would say.

During our non stop conversation he would tell me about his daughter who is working in Bengaluru. As the conversation continued, something that he said caught my attention and put me into thought. Candidly he told, “You visit Shillong as travellers and admire this city. But look at my daughter. She lives in Bangalore since 4 years. She likes that big city so much that she doesn’t want to come to Shillong. She comes here once in two years. Youngsters in North East are all migrating to bigger cities for better education and jobs. All these states are left with are old people.”

Mawsmai cave at Cherrapunji.

Isn’t it same in the small towns and villages of South too? We, the aspiring youngsters abandon our homes, leaving our parents behind. While we become disconnected with our own towns and villages, those who visit them as guests or travellers admire at the very same place.

So every good thing has to come to an end sometime. My trip to North East culminated at Guwahati, the place where I had started it. It was a journey to be cherished for a long long time. If I have to write an epilogue, looking back, what I gained from the North East trails, is getting to know a distinct topography and culture, meeting nicest of the people, and a bagful of memories.

When I say nicest people, I mean no exaggeration. I continue to be in touch with some of them whom I met along the way. There is this taxi driver Rajkumar, who calls me once in a while just to ask “Didi, aap kaise ho?”

Then there is this hotel manager who was so glad that I mentioned his name in my blog. He texts me and asks how do I know his name. I replied, “probably you have forgotten that I had asked your name during my stay at the hotel.” His reply was something unexpected. He says, “I am so happy that you remember me and my name. May a daughter like you be born in every family.” So, for me, the travel was not just creating memories for myself, but being a part of someone else memory too.

During the journey I have met people whom I would remember for a long time. I am sure I will visit North East and meet them again.

As I am signing off from North East trails, you don’t stop visiting this blog. Check out this space for more such travel stories from the hinterland of South India. I promise I will take you through the experiences of some solid journies, very soon!

How to plan a trip to Meghalaya?

• Best time to visit Meghalaya is between June and October, when it pours down heavily. You will witness lush green all around and waterfalls lowing in all their magnitude.
• Keep at least three or days for to tour around Meghalaya.
• This could be your itinerary: First day visit Shillong. Next day head to Mawlynnong, Dawki, Mawsmai cave and waterfalls. Last day to trek to the double-decker root bridge at Cherrapunji (It demands all your strength). You can skip Maywlynnong, if you are trekking to double-decker root bridge.
• Also I would suggest to avoid visiting cleanest village in Mawlynnong. It’s sheer waste of time
• People are friendly. They will guide you.
• Shared taxis are available, but go for a private taxi if you have time constraint. Taxis are quite expensive.
• Weather is moderate, unlike Arunachal Pradesh.
• Guwahati is three and half hours drive from Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya and is well-connected by road.